Costume Jewelry Maker Marks: How to Identify Coro, Trifari, Eisenberg, and Others
Vintage costume jewelry from the 1930s through 1970s — signed by major makers like Coro, Trifari, Eisenberg, Weiss, Miriam Haskell, and Schiaparelli — has been a fast-growing collectibles category. A signed Eisenberg Original brooch from the 1940s sells for $150–$600; an unsigned equivalent piece sells for $20–$60. The marks are small but consistent, and recognizing the major makers' signatures transforms any estate sale or flea market visit into a treasure hunt.
The Big Five: Signature Formats and Their Eras
Coro: 'CORO' in block capitals, sometimes 'Coro' in script, 'Corocraft' for higher-quality pieces, 'Coro Duette' for clip-convert brooches (1931–1970s). Trifari: 'TRIFARI' with a crown above the T from approximately 1938 onward — the crown Trifari mark is the most recognizable. Pre-crown pieces (1918–1938) use 'KTF' (Katz, Trifari & Fishel) or 'Trifari' without the crown. Eisenberg: 'Eisenberg Original' in script (1935–1945), then 'Eisenberg Ice' (1945–1958), then 'Eisenberg' without a descriptor. Weiss: 'WEISS' in block letters in a cartouche (1950s–1970s). Each maker's mark appears on the reverse of the piece, either stamped into the metal or applied as a stamp.
Miriam Haskell and High-End Signed Pieces
Miriam Haskell jewelry is among the most valuable vintage costume jewelry — brooches, necklaces, and bracelets sell for $200–$2,000 depending on complexity and condition. Haskell pieces are marked with an oval cartouche containing 'Miriam Haskell' in script — this mark appears on a small oval plate affixed to the back of the piece, not stamped directly into the metal. The construction is a tell: Haskell used hand-sewn seed beads, Russian gold metal work, and individual wire-wrapped elements — the backs of Haskell brooches show meticulous handwork. Schiaparelli marks use the full name 'Schiaparelli' in block or script; pieces are often in unusual colors (shocking pink, acid green) with innovative glass stones.
Identifying Unsigned Costume Jewelry by Construction
Major makers signed most but not all their pieces — unsigned examples from important makers appear regularly. Trifari's signature rhodium-plated white metal construction, used in 'jelly belly' and clear Lucite figural pieces, is identifiable by the specific bright white finish and precise stone settings even unsigned. Eisenberg's open-back crystal stones (paste) in specific colors (ice blue, rose) with heavy silver-toned metal are recognizable. Miriam Haskell's hand-sewn seed bead work is construction-specific. Florenza (unsigned frequently): ornate Renaissance-style pieces in antiqued gold with pearl and faux gemstone elements — construction quality matches signed pieces.
Condition Grading for Costume Jewelry
Excellent (E): all stones present and secure, no plating loss, clasp functions perfectly, no broken elements. Good (G): one stone missing in a pavé setting, minor plating wear, clasp functional. Fair (F): multiple missing stones, significant plating loss, clasp repair needed. Missing stones are the most common condition issue — replaceable for common stone types ($2–$15 per stone at specialty suppliers) but requiring skill. Plating loss (showing base metal under the gold or silver-tone coating) on Trifari and Coro pieces is the second most common issue. Re-plating is possible but alters collector value; dealers typically prefer unrestored pieces even with plating wear.
On-Site Identification Protocol
Turn the piece over and examine the back with a phone light and loupe. Read any mark present — note the exact format (block vs. script, with or without cartouche, crown or other emblem). Check the construction quality: are stones glued or set in metal prongs? Is there hand-sewn beadwork? Check all stones — run your finger across each to feel for loose or missing ones. Check the clasp operation. For pieces over $30 without marks, examine construction quality — a hand-sewn Haskell-style piece without the mark may be worth researching. Photograph all marks and construction details for later research. The first search every morning at a flea market is the jewelry table.
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