Costume Jewelry Maker Marks: How to Identify Coro, Trifari, Eisenberg, and Others
Vintage costume jewelry from the 1930s through 1970s (signed by major makers like Coro, Trifari, Eisenberg, Weiss, Miriam Haskell, and Schiaparelli) has been a fast-growing collectibles category. A signed Eisenberg Original brooch from the 1940s sells for $150–$600; an unsigned equivalent piece sells for $20–$60. The marks are small but consistent, and recognizing the major makers' signatures transforms any estate sale or flea market visit into a treasure hunt.
The Big Five: Signature Formats and Their Eras
Coro: 'CORO' in block capitals, sometimes 'Coro' in script, 'Corocraft' for higher-quality pieces, 'Coro Duette' for clip-convert brooches (1931–1970s). Trifari: 'TRIFARI' with a crown above the T from approximately 1938 onward. The crown Trifari mark is the most recognizable. Pre-crown pieces (1918–1938) use 'KTF' (Katz, Trifari & Fishel) or 'Trifari' without the crown. Eisenberg: 'Eisenberg Original' in script (1935–1945), then 'Eisenberg Ice' (1945–1958), then 'Eisenberg' without a descriptor. Weiss: 'WEISS' in block letters in a cartouche (1950s–1970s). Each maker's mark appears on the reverse of the piece, either stamped into the metal or applied as a stamp.
Miriam Haskell and High-End Signed Pieces
Miriam Haskell jewelry is among the most valuable vintage costume jewelry. Brooches, necklaces, and bracelets sell for $200–$2,000 depending on complexity and condition. Haskell pieces are marked with an oval cartouche containing 'Miriam Haskell' in script. This mark appears on a small oval plate affixed to the back of the piece, not stamped directly into the metal. The construction is a tell: Haskell used hand-sewn seed beads, Russian gold metal work, and individual wire-wrapped elements. The backs of Haskell brooches show meticulous handwork. Schiaparelli marks use the full name 'Schiaparelli' in block or script; pieces are often in unusual colors (shocking pink, acid green) with innovative glass stones.
Identifying Unsigned Costume Jewelry by Construction
Major makers signed most but not all their pieces. Unsigned examples from important makers appear regularly. Trifari's signature rhodium-plated white metal construction, used in 'jelly belly' and clear Lucite figural pieces, is identifiable by the specific bright white finish and precise stone settings even unsigned. Eisenberg's open-back crystal stones (paste) in specific colors (ice blue, rose) with heavy silver-toned metal are recognizable. Miriam Haskell's hand-sewn seed bead work is construction-specific. Florenza (unsigned frequently): ornate Renaissance-style pieces in antiqued gold with pearl and faux gemstone elements: construction quality matches signed pieces.
Condition Grading for Costume Jewelry
Excellent (E): all stones present and secure, no plating loss, clasp functions perfectly, no broken elements. Good (G): one stone missing in a pavé setting, minor plating wear, clasp functional. Fair (F): multiple missing stones, significant plating loss, clasp repair needed. Missing stones are the most common condition issue: replaceable for common stone types ($2–$15 per stone at specialty suppliers) but requiring skill. Plating loss (showing base metal under the gold or silver-tone coating) on Trifari and Coro pieces is the second most common issue. Re-plating is possible but alters collector value; dealers typically prefer unrestored pieces even with plating wear.
On-Site Identification Protocol
Turn the piece over and examine the back with a phone light and loupe. Read any mark present: note the exact format (block vs. script, with or without cartouche, crown or other emblem). Check the construction quality: are stones glued or set in metal prongs? Is there hand-sewn beadwork? Check all stones. Run your finger across each to feel for loose or missing ones. Check the clasp operation. For pieces over $30 without marks, examine construction quality: a hand-sewn Haskell-style piece without the mark may be worth researching. Photograph all marks and construction details for later research. The first search every morning at a flea market is the jewelry table.
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